5V Adjustable Ecig Clear Blue
This is a from-scratch mod I built for my brother. Seen here with MadVapes 3.5ml dual coil tank filled with their delicious irish mintz juice.
- Adjustable output from 3V to 5.5V through high efficiency Texas Instruments PTR08060w chip
- Rechargeable through jack, no removal of batteries needed
- LED voltmeter built in.
- Main power switch for carrying in your pocket safely. Also allows you switch the voltmeter to read either the atomizer or the batteries.
- Grip tape on bottom and side for extra grip
- UltraFire protected 900mah Li-Ion batteries
- UltraFire 14500 batteries (ebay)
- Texas Instruments PTR08060W power module (ti.com)
- 8.4V Li-Ion wall charger (ebay)
- Voltmeter (ebay)
- Tact switch with black cap (ebay)
- 3 AA clear blue battery case (madvapes.com)
- 510 atomizer connector (madvapes.com)
- 3 position switch (digikey.com)
- 220 ohm thumbwheel potentiometer (digikey.com)
- DC jack (digikey.com)
- (2x) 100 microfarad capacitors (digikey.com)
- 200 ohm resistor (digikey.com)
First I dremeled all the holes needed for the atty connector, button, charge jack, voltage adjusting pot. This plastic is brittle, so I had to be very careful not to crack it by using too much force. A dremel tool worked great for cutting it, because it just melted through from the high speed of the bit. It still took a steady hand and more patience than I am used to, since I couldn’t fix any mistakes with filler.
The atomizer connector was bit too long, so it was dremeled shorter.
For the potentiometer cap I sanded down an extra button cap, then superglued it to the potentiometer.
To make the button spacer I cut a small piece from a long pole of acrylic I had, then I sanded it to the height I needed.
The voltmeter board was cut down a little to fit in the AA size space. It fit surprisingly perfect.
Once everything was in place and the wires tidied up, it was time to secure everything in place.
I superglued the voltmeter, button, switch, and power jack in place. I covered the switch with tape in certain places to keep epoxy from getting into the switch. Then epoxy was applied to the switch, atomizer connector, DC jack, and any pre-existing holes that needed filled.
I found out that the batteries I had bought were longer than the dimensions that were listed. So I had to snip off a little length of the springs on the battery contacts. Then they fit perfectly.
There was no screw with the case so I found one that would fit. Since the plastic was brittle, I didn’t want to just screw it in just to have the screw post crack. So I placed the screw in place, then heated it with a soldering iron until it started sinking in, then just screwed it down into place with the iron. This way the screw melts it’s own screw threads into the plastic.
Finally grip tape was put on the bottom and the back to help prevent dropping it.